To redo the side seams and turn the seam under the lining, where it would be hidden, first I had to take out the old seam. This is annoying enough with just a regular straight seam, but I had serged these ones. So I threw on a movie (or two) and went to work removing tons of thread. Three hours later, once it was all out, I matched up the outside layer, basted and serged it closed again. As you can see from this picture I also had to remove some of the seam on under-arm of the sleeve.
With the lining no longer so constricted, I was able to get the sewing machine up inside to sew the front facing on to the lining so it’s no longer loose. It looks much better and appeases my need for perfection.
I forgot to take pictures of the next part, but I basically turned the coat inside out to close the side-seams on the lining. Basting was also required here to ensure my idea would work, and properly line up the material. It did! I am so smart!
Once that was all closed up, I had the battle of trying to re-close the under arm. This took several tires (and a third movie) but I finally got it.
To make the hem much easier, I serged the bottom closed, rolled it up and put it through the sewing machine. I love my serger.
Finally, it was time for the buttons. My friend’s Dad had picked up some buttons on his trip to Wyoming and I was not expecting what was in the bag. They are beautiful buttons, but I wouldn’t have thought gold & silver with a coat of arms was authentic old-west. First, marking the button-holes and button placement:
Then sewing and cutting the buttons holes and sewing on the buttons:
Nine buttons on the front of the coat and four more on the back. I don’t believe the back ones are ever intended to be actually buttoned, but they do look good.
The completed coat: This I am happy with.
Total time: 16 hours (actually closer to 23, but I’m not counting the time to fix mistakes and redoing things to make myself happy). Total cost: $120 + materials.